Apparently, I'm in New York to do more than wander around gourmet markets and create disasters in my kitchen. They tell me I am also here to learn. School started again last week, and it's been a rough adjustment. Reading novels, writing, having class at the ungodly hour of 2 p.m. Rough, I say! Really, though, things are a little hectic. There's the job, for one thing, and there's a potential second job that may do away entirely with my weekday morning/afternoon wanderings. A scary prospect. That's why, when I woke up this morning with a big book to read and nothing on the trusty Google Calendar until 6 p.m., I jumped on the subway and headed to the Lower East Side for a little cafe crawl.
Appropriately, I'm reading Call It Sleep, by Henry Roth. The LES is a little different now than it was when Roth lived there. Like there probably wasn't a Whole Foods on Bowery. I wonder what would become of little fictional David Schearl among today's LES residents. He would still get teased relentlessly, but for not looking grungy enough, for not having black skinny jeans, for not knowing how to pronounce il Laboratorio del Gelato, for totally missing the irony of, you know, everything.
But back to me. I've been back for five months now, but I'm still surprised when I open my front door and find weather outside. Today might have set a record for most miserable combination of weather events ever (barring, you know, earthquake/tornado situations). A nice soft snow fell all through the night, but at some point early in the day, it got just a little too warm, and by the time I hauled myself outside (after Morning Edition, before the end of BBC World News), a steady rain was turning the world to frigid mush. I was wearing sneakers, which, to my mind, are sensible shoes. Sensible is relative, I suppose. Compared to black ballet flats, sneakers are sensible. But in frigid mush world, nothing makes sense. Crosswalks become icy lakes, seemingly safe street corners turn to tidal waves when taxis pass. A small puddle is, in actuality, ankle-deep. Sneakers are clearly no match for these treacherous conditions.
Between my subway stop and breakfast, a cool .7 miles, I soaked my shoes, my socks, and my pants up to mid-calf. At a few points, I almost turned around because I couldn't figure out how to cross the slushy oceans in front of me. I could not leap them in a single bound. Finally, I realized that everything was so wet, it didn't matter. Then, it was easy. Coldly and miserably easy.
So I made it to Clinton Street Baking Company. It did not look like this, because this is not my photo. I stole it from the website, where the weather is always nice. Honestly, I was mostly too sopping to think about taking out my camera, and once I was inside, I didn't want to draw any more attention to myself. Apparently they don't like it when you take your shoes and socks off, literally ring the water out of the socks, and put them on the opposite seat to dry. Why did I go to CSBC? Well they're famous for their pancakes. But I didn't even get the pancakes! That always happens... The smoked salmon scramble was calling my name. It was great--lots of salmon chunks and scallion cream cheese mixed into lightly scrambled eggs--and it was served with a side salad, which I really appreciated. Greens don't get enough love as a breakfast food. This was a simple mixed green salad with mustard dijon dressing. The tangy taste from the dressing nicely complemented the creamy scramble. I admit that I did have pancake envy at the end of my meal, though. Next time, next time.
I sat in CSBC and nursed a cup of tea until I could feel my toes again. Then I ventured on down Rivington to Teany, which is a terribly hip little spot that specializes in teas and vegan desserts. The tea menu is an entire little book divided into sections by variety (black, green, white, oolong, herbal) and again by flavor (fruity, flowery, spicy, herbal, etc). There are close to 100 choices in all. I got the herbal chai, because I wanted to know if it tasted as good as regular (caffeinated) chai. It wasn't as strong, but I liked it a lot. Worth $5.50 for a pot? While I'm sure the ingredients are top notch, I'd say no. My tofu salad dinner cost less than that and gave me more than just a bursting bladder.

I did get a good hour and almost 70 pages of reading out of that pot. So maybe it was worth it after all.
I was not going to go anywhere else. I was considering cabbing it to the nearest B subway, that's how much I didn't want to walk outside. What convinced me to put my feet back in my sodden sneakers (the socks were left for dead in my backpack by then) and retrace my route? Sugar Sweet Sunshine did. I know, I hate the name. It's so saccharine. But I seriously I hear so much about this place. I can't even link you to all the blogs that have raved about their cupcakes and their pudding and the atmosphere of the store. I was surprised by the small size, but it certainly was cozy. It's the kind of cozy that I've been searching for desperately in Manhattan. There's an old couch, a few tables, some faded easy chairs, and no one cares if you sit for hours and read. The girl at the table behind me looked like she'd been camped out all day, sketching something with pens and markers. It was about 1 p.m. at this point, and the place was pretty quiet. I didn't have the appetite for cupcakes (what? did I really just say that?), so I got some pudding to take home for later. That was my intention, I swear. But the chair looked so comfy and it had started pouring again and I really needed an excuse to sit in one of those comfy chairs with my book.
So I ate the pudding. I got a mix of two flavors: "chocolate bomb" on top and banana on the bottom. I didn't know that pudding could taste like this! Jello brand pudding is not even in the same food group. The chocolate bomb was some kind of pudding/chocolate cake/whipped cream combo, and it was totally decadent. The banana pudding underneath was vanilla pudding/banana slices/Nilla wafers. It was great too, except the banana slices overwhelmed me with banana taste. I think I'm just not into mixing my fruit with my sweets. The consistency was lovely, though, with the Nilla wafers soft and crumbled into the rich pudding. These blogs have great photos.
They had a pumpkin flavor that also looked delicious. I'd mix that with the chocolate next time.
You've teased me relentlessly about my mild--ahem--sweet potato interest, but the fun isn't over yet. Look what I found in the Essex Street Market!

REAL YAMS!!!
See how un-sweet-potatoey they look? (The Essex Street Market is also home to Shopsins, which I've yet to experience, mostly because I'm afraid of Kenny and his absurd menu.)







